AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI / HAND-WOVEN, HAND-DYED SILK TEXTILE
HAJIME SHOJI (AMAMI OSHIMA)
The Art of Amami Oshima Tsumugi: Weaving a Legacy with Hajime Shoji
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In the subtropical embrace of Japan’s Amami Islands lies a fabric steeped in tradition and artistry: AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI. This luxurious silk pongee, cherished for its rich luster and tactile allure, carries a legacy that spans over 1,300 years. The craftsmanship behind it is not merely a trade; it is a tapestry woven from the threads of history, folklore, and the dedicated hands of artisans. At the forefront of this tradition stands Tadaaki Hajime, an eighth-generation weaver who is navigating the delicate balance between preserving his heritage and innovating for a modern world.
Hajime's introduction to AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI came in a manner that would shape his future. “When I was a university student, I was studying in a completely different field, one summer vacation I returned home to the island of Amami Oshima, and I was really moved to see how fascinating this was and felt a strong attraction to this work,” he says. This epiphany ignited a passion that has led him to breathe new life into a craft that, while historically significant, faces challenges in contemporary Japan.
The Essence of Craftsmanship
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At its core, AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI is a celebration of meticulous craftsmanship. TSUMUGI is one of the world’s great textiles—a finely woven, labor-intensive pongee made from raw silk threads. By the Edo period (1603–1867), AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI had become a specialty of Amami Oshima, used as tax payments to the Satsuma domain. Islanders were required to supply the fabric alongside sugarcane, a practice that continued until 1879 when the Amami Islands were officially integrated into Japan.
The process starts with plotting a pattern to guide how the silk threads, both vertical and horizontal, are dyed before weaving. This intricate, time-consuming process involves dyeing the threads multiple times—between 20 and 80 applications—using pigment from the Yeddo hawthorn shrub, known as sharinbai in Japanese, followed by immersion in iron-rich mud. This combination creates the deep black shades synonymous with OSHIMA TSUMUGI. The threads are dyed in stages, with both sharinbai and mud dyeing repeated to achieve a rich, earthy color.
Once the initial dyeing process is complete, the fabric is soaked in the mud, allowing it to absorb the earthy pigments. This labor-intensive cycle is repeated multiple times, enhancing the depth and richness of the color. “The frequency of the process determines the intensity of the color, whether it be a rich brown or a deep black,” Hajime explains, emphasizing the dedication required to achieve the desired shades.
The mud used in this dyeing technique is sourced from specific areas on the island, where the soil is fine and abundant in iron. For centuries, these mud fields have been carefully tended to, capturing and retaining mineral-rich water from rainfall. The artisan stands knee-deep in the mud, painstakingly soaking each piece to ensure an even application. After this, the fabric is hang-dried before undergoing a delicate washing process. A handheld “tawashi” brush is used to gently scrub away any excess mud, allowing the inherent beauty of the fabric to shine through.
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The Weaving Process
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The threads undergo a laborious three-day preparation process. Once the bindings are removed, the dyed lengths of the threads and the undyed lengths form the woven pattern. The weaving itself requires intense concentration and skilled handiwork. One tan, a roughly 40-foot-long roll of fabric needed to make a kimono, takes even the most experienced weaver 40 to 50 days to complete, at a rate of about 30 centimeters per day. Because of this, the most valuable element for craftspeople — outside of skill — is time. This meticulous process and attention to detail is what sets Oshima tsumugi apart, making it a coveted choice not only for traditional kimonos but also for contemporary products like robes, shawls, and room shoes.
The AMAMIFU Collection
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Among Hajime's most notable contributions is the AMAMIFU collection, which showcases hand-woven SAKIORI fabric crafted from shredded vintage kimono. This collection is more than just a product line; it is a testament to sustainability and creativity. “We take old kimono from customers and reweaving them in Amami and deliver new products in return,” he explains. This process not only revives discarded materials but also connects the past with the present, creating a circular economy that honors both heritage and innovation.
In the AMAMIFU process, vintage OSHIMA TSUMUGI is cut into strips, which are then woven together with silk thread on the OSHIMA TSUMUGI loom. SAKIORI carefully repurposes these vintage textiles, transforming them into durable new fabrics that are textured, yet soft.
The AMAMIFU pieces invite tactile engagement. “You won’t understand unless you touch it... I think the feel and the sound when it touches your skin are very important,” Hajime emphasizes, urging us to experience the fabric fully. Each garment is imbued with the stories of its materials, transformed from remnants of the past into something new and vibrant.
Navigating Modern Challenges
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Hajime is keenly aware of the contemporary challenges facing traditional crafts, particularly the difficulty in maintaining and repairing the specialized equipment needed for Oshima tsumugi production. “One of the biggest issues we face is the lack of craftsmen who can repair or construct looms,” he explains. As the number of artisans skilled in tool-making declines, it becomes increasingly difficult to sustain the craft. Without these, the intricate processes that define Oshima tsumugi — from dyeing to weaving — are at risk.
By embracing sustainable practices like reusing vintage textiles and engaging in eco-friendly production, Hajime hopes to create a model for the future of fashion that honors both the environment and the craftsmanship. “Our goal is to connect the past with the present, creating something beautiful and meaningful for the future,” he asserts, while emphasizing the importance of addressing these pressing challenges to keep the craft alive.
The Beauty of Tradition
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As our conversation draws to a close, Hajime’s passion for AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI is palpable. “Every piece is an invitation to touch history,” he concludes, a sentiment that encapsulates the very essence of this extraordinary fabric. In an age dominated by fast fashion and disposable goods, the artistry of Amami Oshima tsumugi serves as a poignant reminder of the value of craftsmanship and the stories woven into every thread.
To truly appreciate the wonders of AMAMI OSHIMA TSUMUGI, one must engage with it on a sensory level. Feel the softness, marvel at the intricate patterns, and recognize the narratives that envelop each piece. In doing so, we not only honor the legacy of artisans like Tadaaki Hajime but also contribute to the enduring story of a fabric that has stood the test of time, weaving its way into the fabric of our lives.
Text by Lisa Wallin
Photo: (Location) Josh Rubin for COOL HUNTING, (Products) GION